HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTORCYCLE ADVICE - Part Four

This is the continuation of one of James Russell's articles that contains useful information.


Due to his opinion differing from mine in many ways, I have edited some things to suit my way of thinking.
All the information contained in this article does not just pertain to Harley Davidson Motorcycles, it can be presumed that it applies to all motorcycles, where not specifically implied.

I have been injecting James Russell's name into some places to show that was his opinion, not mine. Now if you read this it will be unchanged. Anything that is to credited to me will be in orange text, while the original text will be in blue.



Well-trained reflexes are quicker than luck. ~Author Unknown



Part Four......



46. Question:

My Harley's cam chain tension shoes were inspected at 30,000 miles and were found good. When will I need to replace them? Also, other bikes use cam chains and tensioners devices with good success, so what is the problem?

Answer:

Tough question regarding when shoes will fail for even Harley does not know! These shoes wear fast, as quick as 12,000 miles on some bikes and some engines go on for tens of thousands of miles with little wear. It's possible synthetic oils prevent failure. That's the inconsistency of the problem, but the cam shoes will fail... no doubt about it and it will devastate your engine when it does fail. There are inner and outer shoes, so make sure the entire cam chest plate is pulled away from the crankcase during inspection. Some shops only examine the outer shoes and the inner shoes have been known to wear out faster than the outer. Both inner and outer shoes must be inspected. These shoes are not like other bikes like Honda, BMW and other metric bikes. These shoes are tiny in comparison to other bikes and under extreme spring tension pressure. The hydraulic upgrade removes the springs reducing pressure and wear, but those shoes are still tiny and will wear out so the problem is not fixed, it is only pushed down the road. Other bike brands use cam chains with very long chain guides and the chain is not subject to serpentine loops like a Harley Twin-Cam is. You can't compare this cam chain problem to other motorcycles.





47. Question:

My dealer told me I need to change the brake fluid on my new bike. This confuses me, please explain? I only have 8,000 miles on the bike.

Answer:

The system is sealed so air should not have gotten into the system and if it did it would be a warranty problem. The only instance I can see is the calipers are sticking due to pressure wash fluid pushing water past the piston seals causing corrosion on the pistons.

When pressure washing your bike, never put a direct spay on your brake calipers or your wheel bearing. Both are reasonably sealed but the were not designed to stand the force of a pressure washer.

A brake line could be damaged leaking or collapsed causing piston drag. Get a second opinion. Do not accept repairs just because some dealer or parts or service writer relays a message to you of a problem. A lot of people are being burned with false diagnosis and unneeded repairs.



WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS ADVERTISEMENT?

Harley-Davidson Service - Only $99.99

We Perform A Comprehensive Vehicle Inspection

Inspect Fuel Petcock

Inspect Brake Pads

Inspect Fork Alignment

Inspect Triple Trees

Inspect Front Wheel Fall-Away

Change Engine Oil

Check Charging System

Check Battery

Change Transmission Oil

Check Clutch Adjustment

Inspect Air Cleaner

Change Primary Oil

Check Throttle and Cable

Inspect Clutch Cable

Check Tire Pressure

Test Wheel Spokes for Looseness

Check Headlight Aim

Check Turn Signals & Brake Lights

Replace Oil Filter

Inspect Tire Wear & Damage

Examine Wheel Rims

Examine Wheel Bearings

Check Brake Function

Same Day Service Only $10 more!

Nasty Mc'Nasties Cycle Repair

148 Fallen Angel Avenue

Reno, Nevada

The problem with the above advertisement is filled with Tomfoolery nonsense. The only thing being performed is a routine oil change... and the quality of the oil and filter is unknown. Odds are you will get inferior oil and pay $100 for the privilege. The ad is trying to mimic the "Service Intervals" dealers enjoy posting that also list a bunch of things that do not really need to be performed by anyone else but the "owner" as non-technical in nature. Look at the ad one more time and imagine if each item needed "attention" such as oil, lubing, adjusting and you can see your $100 oil change will soon be a $350 or higher repair bill. Hey, this is how the industry bilks people. Wise up to it.

I will give you a great tip of advice. When you pick up your bike, make sure you only pay and agree for the oil change. The inspection was to be free. Any problems they show you have them subject to a second opinion at another shop, but do not fall for getting the bike fixed at that first shop or you will be bilked. The free inspection service is just a scam to look for little defects or wear items then scare you into getting them fixed ASAP. So, here's the end result you need... you pay only for the oil change and get out of there! Deal with the other problems at another time and place. The ad you see above is a come-on scam advertisement. The moment you walk into the door asking about the service special they label you as a "sucker" and they will turn the screws. And they do it with a smile and with great politeness. Smiling assassins they are!

48. Question:

A repair shop told me I need new brake lines. They did not seem damaged at all. Are they scamming me or what?

Answer:

Maybe they are shot. It is a common practice by dealers to push new brake lines when overhauling calipers. If you see no exterior damage that does not mean damage is not present. If the inner liner is collapsed it will prevent brake fluid to flow in the brake line and the caliper pistons will not retract and will not have strong braking power, so this could be the reason you need new lines. Another reason is the brake lines over 10-years old, There is a date stamped on the lines. After ten years replace the lines. Why not upgrade and replace the brake lines with stronger metal braided lines? They are much better than rubber/plastic coated lines because the hose can not expand giving you firm and quick braking control.

48. Question:

Can I install carbon brakes on my bike?

Answer:

Carbon/carbon brake "rotors" are racing only and they need heat to work, they wear out fast and they absorb water so they are useless in the rain. A company is making street rotors of a carbon matrix that wear as well as metal rotors, work when cold and in the rain. Brake Tech USA may have rotors to fit Harley-Davidson so check with them and other companies. Yes, you can absolutely use carbon fiber brake pads on your Harley and you will love the stopping power they will give you, but black dust will dirty your wheels. The dust comes off with one wipe, but it does get old trying to keep the wheel rims and calipers. It will not hurt to try them! Ferodo (Federal-Mogul) makes brake pads that Ferrari uses on their cars. They have been used on big bikes and they are wonderful brakes, but they are hard on the rotors. You could get up to 1/3 less life on the rotors. But, if you need stopping power something has got to give! First try carbon fiber as they seem to be just as powerful if not better and less wear on the rotors. Thankfully, H-D solid-disk non-floating rotors are generally inexpensive to replace. The best place to find brake pads, rotors and calipers is with those huge motorcycle catalogs accessories stores have such as Drag Specialties from Parts Canada.

http://ecat.ferodoracing.com/#

http://www.partscanada.com/catalogues





49. Question:

I need compression releases and my mechanic needs to drill holes in my cylinder heads. I can't afford this! Help.

Answer:

To the rescue! All new 103-inch Harley's come with electronic compression releases. If your engine does not have them there is no longer any need to drill holes in the cylinder heads to install compression releases to make starting easier. You can install S&S cams with automatic compression releases built into the cams and this is the best route by far to go for reliability. A cheaper alternative (no repair shop will tell you) is that there is a product that screws into the existing spark plug hole! Imagine that. Now imagine the hundreds of dollars you save! And, you can do it yourself. Spyke FyrStryke makes them and even Amazon.com sells them. As with all "threaded" compression release products carry a spare compression release. With the Spyke FyrStryke carry a standard set of spark plugs in case it too fails when you are touring or far from home. Also, make certain you get the proper thread hole and thread pitch size and use a torque wrench to install or the device will blow right out of the cylinder head and it could damage the spark plug hole threads. Assuming this is the worst case you can install a Helicoil to fix the head threads. Since the heads are made of soft aluminum you just coat the tap with grease to catch the larger metal chips, vacuum out the chips on top of the piston to fix it. No need to remove the cylinder head. Tiny aluminum chips will just melt and blow out the exhaust pipe damaging nothing.

While saving time & expense, I personally do not recommend a plug thread repair with the head on the engine. Any debris in your engine is a recipe for disaster.

Spyke FyrStryke Compression Release

 

l Fits EVO Big Twins, Aftermarket, and Short Reach Shovelheads

l NOTE: Will not fit Twin Cam or bikes with screaming eagle heads

l NOTE: Will not fit Revtech motors with 12mm spark plugs

l State of the art spark plugs boost power and torque

l Short reach Shovelhead adapters available

l Perfect for hard starting and kick-start bikes

l Polished aluminum construction

l No machining necessary - simply change plugs!

l 14mm plugs

l Sold as a set





http://www.sscycle.com/go-fast-showcase/motorcycle-engine-components/easy-start-cams/





50. Question:

Should I have my bike repaired at a dealership or at an independent shop?

Answer:

If your bike is still under warranty you should use the dealer. Use an independent shop you trust, but know that if something goes wrong you are stuck dealing with that little shop and maybe some thug characters at that. You may not like the way they treat you. You may not like their policies. They may blame you for the problem and not honor their verbal warranty they gave to you. James Russell would suggest you bring your bike to a authorized Harley-Davidson dealership. Yes, you will pay more, but you will get the job done right the first time and if something does go wrong you got recourse to grieve your case to Harley-Davidson corporate customer service to get a resolution.

It seems that James Russell is flipping on some of his advisories. In one answer he trashes Dealerships while advocating aftermarket shops, now he is doing the opposite.

As I have said, unless you need warranty work find a mechanic who will treat you with respect and tell you the truth about what you need. Not all mechanics can fix all models of Harley, so find one that is familiar with what you are riding. Some aftermarket shops are quite reliable & trustworthy, but there are some with questionable morals. Sometimes a backyard mechanic who works out of his garage is a better choice. Ask around for other opinions. Talk to the people who will work on your bike. Do you feel comfortable around them? Do you trust their opinions as to what you need? Sometimes a good mechanic has to steer you away from bad ideas about upgrades to your bike & convince you of a better way.

51. Question:

What causes the "death wobble"?

Answer:

Dynas and baggers rubber-mounted engine and drivetrain is not rigidly attached to the chassis. The engine can flex front to rear but it can not roll or yaw and this permits the rear wheel to not track true with the front wheel and a severe wobble occurs. It is called a death wobble for a reason as it has killed riders from severe out of control oscillations. The bike will actually wobble and leave the road and crash. It really is a serious problem few desire to talk about. It affects bikes 1994 and up until H-D decides to fix it. So far, there is no real cure. Aftermarket stabilizers can be installed to help stiffen the engine to the frame, but it is not the perfect fix although way better than nothing. The death wobble can occur at normal highway speed or when passing cars. FL touring models have a thin and weak triple tree that can create ill handling problems. Install a strong Tour Trac Tree to fix that problem.

https://www.customcycleengineering.com/Product-Details/Desser_Tour_Trac_Trees-1





52. Question: I had my bike dyno-tuned and when I came to pick up the bike I was told bad news. The belt drive broke. Who is responsible for this?

Note: The following answer is worth reading, BUT, don't form a conclusion until you read my followup after it.

Answer:

You are. You should never put your bike on a dyno. I know it is common practice today, but the stress and strain on your engine, transmission, frame and tires and belt is brought to punishing and severe service. So much stress is applied to the rear wheel the belt can snap in two. Again, this is dangerous as the belt may not break and be severely damaged and you ride away and the belt breaks in traffic or on the freeway. It can also wrap around the rear wheel pulley and lock it into a nasty skit and crashing or wrap around the transmission pulley and snap, bend, warp the transmission shaft, knock the crankshaft out of balance crack engine/transmission cases. Nasty stuff. Dynos also damage the rear tire internally and that's why tire manufacturers warn they void the warranty if you dyno the bike with their tires installed. And... engines can break badly when dyno stress is applied. It is not like driving a bike on the street. The dyno overloads the rear wheel, transmission and engine way beyond what you could do on the street. It is worse than racing your bike on a drag strip. Horrific forces are applied by the dyno your motorcycle was never designed to endure and that's why you bike broke. It is also why dealers and shops love dynos for they stress your bike and you'll be back soon enough for repairs. Plus, they charged you good money for the privilege! Yes, you can install high performance parts without using a dyno. When you map the ECU you simply use a certified matched profile for your power kit installed. Dynos are being used to make money for those who own dynos. My advice is to stay away from dynos. When we built drag racing engines years past we didn't have dynos, nobody did. Now every shop has one and they are "dazzling" the masses of riders thinking they are needed. Magazines also dyno bikes a lot but they are finishing their article to measure horsepower change from stock. The Horse Magazine, February 2013 issue on page 80 shows a mechanic holding up a broken clean drive belt snapped-in-two when they were using the dyno. It happens. And most Harley riders do not understand dynos. Not all dynos can accurately simulate actual riding conditions. Only the newer dynos can automatically adjust load and inertia to any variable speed or torque and these that do are the water brake, DC or AC electric intelligent dynos. They are the only dynos that can accurately MAP the bike's ECM. And here's the catch... not many shops have one! It means you are getting shoddy dyno work and print out reports and you need to know one more thing... a lot of shops have dyno operators who do not know what they are doing! It means you are paying for inferior dyno work. I have seen dealers sucker people into having their bike dyno-tuned and for no other reason but to tell the customer it is needed and bill the customer $170 or more. It is a scam, so beware. Today you can flash your ECU with beautiful custom fuel management maps without using a dyno because the dyno work has already been done by the people who wrote the maps. Only really big inch custom engines with strange components may need a dyno turn, and that can be performed on an "engine dyno" that will not stress the transmission, drivetrain and tires and will measure "true" horsepower at the crankshaft. If you are lured to get your bike dyno-tuned run for the exit or pay the man.

There are many pros & cons to a dyno run. Yes a dyno can break your bike, but would you rather have it break in the shop or when you are pushing the limits on the highway? A dyno is a tool, & like any other tool is very useful when used properly. A tool is only as good as the person using it. There are dyno magicians, dyno tuners, & dyno users. There are a lot of dyno users out there who have taken the course supplied by the dealer who sold the unit, but they may not have an understanding of the principles of proper tuning. Some of these people think that you have to push a bike to the limits to tune it, but all they are doing is stressing the parts to possible failure.

The tuner should know what is involved in making a bike run smooth & powerful. He should know what to tweek & when. A magician can tune a bike without a dyno, but uses it to fine tune it to perfection. In my many years of working on bikes, I have only seen a couple of these masters. They are hard to find. If you find one, be very nice to them. :-)

Properly used, a dyno should not stress a machine any more than you would riding on the street. I personally believe that your bike does not need to be tuned beyond powerband that you normally ride in. I rarely go above 4000 rpm, so why would I need the bike to perform at 6000 rpm. If you ride at the limits then you will want it tuned to those limits.

The maps on the newer bikes are generally base maps that need to be tuned to your riding style and the parts of your bike. A general map will do a general job, but a dyno might find something that will make just a little better.

The choice is yours, but if you want a dyno run, don't just look for your max horsepower & torque, have it tune to run its best in you riding powerband. Be wary of inexperience operators. Ask around to see who is the best one to do the job in your area. I no one is close, it may be worth the trip to go to one within a reasonable distance.

53. Question:

What do you say about installing a 21" front tire on a bagger?

Answer:

Are you nuts? A huge, heavy bike needs a wide tire contact patch. The tiny patch a 21" wheel meets on the roadway is straight out dangerous. When braking or cornering the heavy rear of the bike transfers weight to the front wheel and that can cause the front wheel to skid and the bike will fall down or exit the road to crash. The custom bagger craze is ridiculous the things they are doing for eye candy but can kill you. Any bike with a 21" wheel is dangerous and give a horrible quality ride for the tire is narrow and grabs road imperfections to wobble the bike. You always fight the bike with the handlebars to stop wandering tiring out your arms even on small 100 mile rides. Install a 19" minimum or a fat 16" on the front. Forget about looking cool. Nobody really cares anyway if you look cool or not. Better to be safe, sane and live to ride another day.

This is a matter of preference. I personally use a 21" wheel on the front of my bike. I have ridden it to both coast of Canada with no problem. Yes, it can follow imperfections in the roadway & iron bridge can be a challenge at times, but it will become an automatic response to anticipate problems & correct accordingly.

54. Question:

How do I gain confidence to fix my own bike? I just do not know how to go about it.

Answer:

You start like everyone else, one small step at a time. You can take a trade school course if one is available. That is the best and quickest way. If no school? You could volunteer at a local repair shop as an apprentice. This is slow and agonizing method and likely you will be abused to clean floors, parts, restroom and not learn too much. You could buy a used bike to learn how to take it apart with a service manual. That method works. I started on my own bike when I was in my young teens learning how to repair everything on the bike and overhauling the engine. It is amazing how fast you can learn by just diving in. I had no service manual. Today there a fine service manuals sold to guide you. Confidence only comes by doing. Learn to change the oil compartments on your Harley then graduate to tire changing and then top-end overhaul. Then you will be ready to split cases and do transmission work. Just take your time and enjoy the learning process. I say, just begin with a service manual. The service manual also has a lot of safety tips so you don't cut a finger off by accident or start a fire in your garage.



WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS ADVERTISEMENT?

Free Oil Change

When You Buy Oil & Filter

Fast Free Same Day Service at:

Big Dealer Cycles

666 Lucifer's Lane

Mt. Diablo, California

The above advertisement sounds great, but if these guys are thieves watch out! This advertisement is very powerful to draw new customers and it is a good deal at first glance. But one has to now wonder what is really going on here. These guys are willing to work for free? Seems that way, right? No labor charge! But what if they tell you they are putting in quality oil when in fact they are installing inferior oil? There's no way to tell for sure. Even if you bring in your own oil they can switch the oil in the back room with containers filled with cheap oil and you will never know as they pour it into your engine. I have seen these rotten tricks working in motorcycle shops! So, how does a shop like this benefit working for free? To build up your trust and earn your business as the same time damaging your engine so you will bring your bike back to them for repairs. What if they put a bit of valve grinding compound in with the oil, huh? Yeah, it will scratch critical engine components wearing out the engine. Con men operate by earning your complete trust letting you believe they will never harm you, but they are out to get you. The repair industry is full of crooks, liars and con artists. You think all those mechanics heavily tattooed like prison inmates are your friends? That they are upstanding law-abiding citizens? Get real. Many have criminal records and have now found a way to steal, rob and connive operating a vehicle repair business that won't send them to prison even if they do get caught scamming customers. And the same goes for those bare-skinned nice guys who look like clean-cut talk show hosts on TV. These guys can con you just as badly and often even more boldly. There used to be a time people could watch repairs being performed on their vehicles behind a glass wall window. Notice today how those glass windows are now concrete walls sealing your eyes away from what is really going on in the back? There is a good reason for it... they don't want you to see and learn what is really going on back there! Just search on the Internet "Auto Repair Scams" "Auto Fraud" or go to sites such as, Consumer Defense Law. There is one sure way to stop being defrauded and that is to learn how to fix your own motorcycle.

55. Question:

Any advice on motorcycle clothing?

Answer:

Yes, buy a riding jacket that has 3DO or similar protective armor. Buy Sliders Kevlar jeans with optional knee armor. They have the most protection and are economically priced. If you ever do fall off your bike for any reason you will be glad you had these items. I also ride with a full-face, modular (flip-up) helmet. I don't want my face slamming into pavement or grinding on it. Many Harley riders want to look cool and many of them die and are disfigured for the privilege. Wear protective equipment. Be professional. More and more Harley riders are getting wise and wearing protective gear.

http://www.d3o.com/markets/motorcycle/

I personally wear a half helmet. I don't like forced to have a helmet, although there are times that they are useful. A full face or a 3/4 helmet tends to restrict my hearing, & my peripheral vision. I don't even like eye protection that restricts my peripheral vision. Also, the weight of the larger helmets put an unnatural strain on your neck. If you have an accident, you may come out with a good looking head, but if it is not attached to your body, it isn't much good to you, or if the spine is severed & your body does not react to commands any more, then you are not much better off.

If you ride with care & common sense then you should not need all the armor that people wear. Be aware of your surroundings. Don't assume that the other guy is going to do what he is supposed to do. Always be ready to react to a dangerous situation.

On an extremely hot day, someone in full leathers & a full face helmet can have a heat stroke while riding.

56. Question:

I have a H-D Touring model and I hear a clicking noise and sometimes some whiplash in my drive system. What is the cause?

Answer:

Late model Touring bikes have a "cush" cushion drive in the rear wheel. It is just rubber isolators set in the wheel and the rear drive pulley inserts into the rubber gaps to take out nasty shocks to the rear wheel and drivetrain. If the rubber isolators fail you will hear a clicking noise and harsh shift transitions when accelerating and decelerating. It is called a "death rattle" by some because it sounds like the death rattle of cylinder detonation, but emanating at the rear wheel. You can easily repair this yourself. Of course, it could also be a loose brake pad, brake caliper or worn rear wheel or swing arm bearing.

57. Question:

The starter has failed three times on my bike. I am tired of this expensive $700 breakdown leaving me stranded for a tow truck and motel room, etc. What can I do?

Answer:

If your starter motor fails you should still be able to roll the bike in gear with clutch disengaged, pop the clutch to engage to start the bike. Try that next time. It will save you from a tow. Listen to your starter when you start your bike. If you get hesitation to start when pressing the start battery you may have a weak battery or a dirty connection. It can also be bad copper shoes in the starter solenoid itself worn and burned out. Listen also for any grinding noise as this indicates worn starter and clutch gear teeth. Could even be a bad primary cover bushing causing misalignment of the starter gear. Most of the time it will be a failed starter clutch. You should invest in buying an upgraded aftermarket one that is much stronger than the stock item. If you do not have compression release installed on a hopped-up engine you will get starter failures. You may only need one compression release, but two are better for big overbore engines (103+cubic inch) with high compression ratio over 9 to 1.

58. Question:

A dealer told me if I allow non-H-D shops work on my bike it can lose that classic Harley sound. Is this true?

Answer:

No. The dealer is just using scare tactics to keep you coming back to his dealership. The only way you could lose that Harley sound if you had installed exhaust pipes not designed for Harley's like installing a pipe with an expansion chamber on it like two-stroke dirt bikes. I don't know anybody in the industry who would dare do such a thing. The dealer is just giving you a line of bad advice for his benefit. Installing pistons, cams, crankshaft, transmissions, wheels, tires will not alter the sound of your Harley except to make it sound even better.

59. Question:

My dealer told me not to worry about the transmission rattle I have coming from the clutch throw out bearing on my brand new 2013 Touring engine. I think it is a defect and they don't want to fix it. What can I do?

Answer:

Fear not. There is nothing wrong with the bike. That sound you hear is actually deep inside the transmission's straight-cut first gears, but sound emits from the right side trap door area especially in neutral gear. It is just gear rattle. Some bikes have it, some don't, but all eventually will. Your bike just has a bit more "slop" backlash play between the first gear pair and these gears will "chatter" and make you think it is a serious defect. Is it a defect? Yes, due to the design of the transmission. Can it be fixed? Yes, but it is not needed because the chattering noise is just that, noise. It will not harm the transmission until a million miles is put on the transmission! H-D is working on a fix for future models only because the EPA will force them to eventually stop the noise, not that the rattle is a reliability issue. This rattle noise, for now, is nothing to worry about so just get used to it. I know this is hard to do, but once you realize all Harley Twin-Cam overdrive transmissions will begin to chatter it may soothe the pain. Also, most Harley riders install louder pipes that drown out the noise. If you don't hear the rattle, it won't bother you anymore. Now, if you feel strong vibrations when riding and/or hear loud grinding noises that is a defect from a failed shaft bearing. Now, if you just can't stand the rattle noise you can do what other riders have done, switch to a heavier grade motorcycle specific transmission gear oil like 75W-90 or 80W-90. The thicker oil dampens the noise a lot, but it will be a drag on fuel mileage as the oil is resistant to flow even at high temperatures. Now don't think thicker oil is better oil. If you install 70W-140 oil it will be so thick it may not be thin enough to lubricate fast moving parts like ball bearings and will not permit metal filings from being captured by the oil drain plug magnet and that will ruin your transmission.


Well, that's enough for now.....

Stay tuned for Part Five.....


Happy Trails.....