This is another one of James Russell's articles that contains useful information.
Due to his opinion differing from mine in many ways, I have edited some things to suit my way of thinking.
All the information contained in this article does not just pertain to Harley Davidson Motorcycles, it can be presumed that it applies to all motorcycles, where not specifically implied.
This is a very long read, which will be spit into many parts.
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle. ~Author Unknown
1. Question:
I have 88c.i. TC. Can I use 96c.i. TC engine parts in my engine?
Answer:
No. The heads, cams, pistons, crankcases are all different. You should just use parts specifically designed for your size engine. Each year Harley-Davidson improves its engines trying to fix those nagging engine defects to some degree or another and it becomes a nightmare to try to interchange parts. Just because a engine is a Twin-Cam does not mean parts will fit the 88, 96, 103, 110, etc. This is not a bad thing. Every improvement H-D can make is just one less problem us riders need to endure.
2. Question:
What are the cc's in Harley motors?
Answer:
First, a motor is an electric motor. A gas or diesel internal combustion prime mover is an engine. With electric motorcycles now arriving on scene learn the difference between motor and engine to avoid the confusion many riders will soon be dazzled by.
Here's the equivalent engine sizes:
61ci = 1000cc,
74ci = 1200cc,
80ci = 1340cc,
88ci = 1450cc,
96ci = 1585cc,
103ci = 1690cc,
110ci = 1800cc.
As you can see many metric bikes have larger engines than Harley-Davidson's 110 cubic inch size, but they don't have the feel and the sound of a Harley.
3. Question:
My Touring model has a wobble on deceleration or when I take my hands off the handlebars. What is wrong?
Answer:
Be aware that Harley-Davidson will probably not fix your bike if you tell them it wobbles when you take your hands off the handlebars so never say that. But if the bike wobbles it can be a few things. If you have spoke wheels it can be the sprocket or center spool offset are out of alignment or just loose spokes so you need to have the wheel's trued. If you have cast wheels? Start with the simple things first. Check your air pressure in both tires. Empty out the saddlebags and luggage. Just loading up a slight weight shifting unbalance can cause a wobble, usually at a steady state speed with hands off the handlebars but it can happen on acceleration and deceleration. It only happens when you take your hands off the bars. Check for broken or loose motor mounts. Your steering head bearing might need adjusting and this is not a warranty item so you learn to do it yourself or pay, pay, pay! You can't, like the old days, grab your front forks and feel for a looseness in the bearing. You got to disassemble all that fairing junk on your Touring model which can take hours of your time just to get to the steering head bearings to make the adjustment. A service manual will then show you how to adjust the bearings. It can even be a Harley-Davidson high speed wobble which is a defect. You will need to purchase an aftermarket engine/frame stabilizer such as the Touring Link - Stabilizer by Progressive Suspension. You may also want to see if a new TourTrac Tree will solve your wobble problem. Also consider True-Track who makes products to stabilize the engine and swingarm.
http://www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1484/touring-link
https://www.customcycleengineering.com/Product-Details/Desser_Tour_Trac_Trees-1
http://www.true-track.com/tt_20-00lr.html
4. Question:
My belt drive makes a squealing noise. How do I stop it?
Answer:
Could be the belt is out of alignment? You can adjust the rear belt adjusters to move the drive belt back toward the center of the pulley. Now, just because you see your belt touching the edge of your rear wheel pulley does not mean this is a problem. The belt should not be rubbing hard against the pulley's side edge as that will cause a squealing or rubbing noise and it can cause wear on the belt. In most cases, just take a contractor's pencil and write some of the graphite lead on the edges of the pulley where the belt is rubbing and the noise should go away. If not, or the noise returns in one week or a couple hundred miles, then check for belt alignment between both pulleys. You only need to get the belt to not ride hard against the pulley's shoulder edges. If you look at new bikes on the showroom floor you will see many belts are not perfectly centered on the pulley. These pulley's are not crowned so the belt can slide from left to right on the pulley. It may touch the pulley edge, but it should not be driven hard against the edge due to misalignment. If the belt is adjusted to tightly it may squeal.
5. Question:
My disk brakes squeal at low speed. How do I stop it?
Answer:
If you can see brake pad material on your brake pads on both sides of each disk rotor the squeal is not dangerous. Some riders neglect their brake pads and the squeal is actually metal to metal contact on the brake rotor. Glazed brake pads will squeal. The pad surface become hard and slick smooth due to "soft" braking. You need to do some "hard" braking too, so pads do not glaze over with a hard-shell coating. Once the pads are glazed the cure is often to renew the brake pads. You can use the same trick as in answer #4 to write some graphite on the disk rotor as this will lubricate the disk and pads a bit to reduce squeal. You can also take some fine sandpaper and remove some of the glazed material off the disk rotor and do the same on the brake pads. Odds are the noise will return. If you have this problem do not replace the pads with stock pads, but rather go with some HH racing pad blends or carbon fiber. You should apply a high temperature brake pad grease lubricant to the metal back of the brake pads, not the friction side, to prevent chatter and squeal. Yes, these pads will be a bit harsher on the brake rotors, but you will love the increased stopping power and the fact they are usually not noisy.
6. Question:
Is there an alternative source of engine parts other than Harley-Davidson?
Answer:
There are so many aftermarket parts sellers that it would take too long to list them. Search the part you want online or just search general parts & accessories to find catalogs to look at for everything your heart desires. When you find something you like, it can be ordered online or you can go to your local motorcycle shop to order. Some companies do not use dealers so you will have to order from them online.
7. Question:
I need deep and long saddlebags for my Sportster. Who sells them?
Answer:
Cycle Visions has bagger style hard bags for Sportster, Softail and Dyna. You can also see them in the Drag Specialties catalog, but there is a difference in the US Drag Specialties and the Canadian Drag Specialties from Parts Canada. Check with Leatherlyke as they sell affordable high-quality hard bags that always look new even when exposed to strong Arizona sunlight over many years time.
http://www.cyclevisions.com/
http://www.dragspecialties.com/
http://partscanada.com/catalogues
http://www.leatherlyke.com/
8. Question:
I am not certain which torque value I should use on a bolt that has a range to it like, 15-25 inch pounds. Which value do I use?
Answer:
The male thread bolt and female threads both must be lubed before assembly then torque that bolt to the middle number of 20 inch pounds. This will allow for any minor calibration errors in your torque wrench so the bolt will still be "in range". Never assume a torque wrench is accurate unless you have had it calibrated or you have checked the tested torque applied yourself using a second torque wrench, they both should be very close in values or one is giving unacceptable errors.
I use ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lube for most instances, especially on head bolts.
9. Question:
Can you explain the low oil pressure problem in the TC engine?
Answer:
It is a bit complex. Go to Feuling for a better explanation. Generally speaking in the cam plate there is a pressure relief valve that can fail. Some mechanics try to fix it by stretching the spring or installing a stiffer spring, but it is not the spring alone that is causing the problem it is the valve ball and seat leak and that needs to be addressed. Also, stock H-D oil pumps just don't move enough oil causing low oil flow in the engine. This relief valve and oil pump are in the Twin-Cam engine cam chest, where those problematic cam chain followers are residing. If you decide to go with gear-driven cams consider also buying a Fueling oil pump and cam plate to put a stop to defects in this area of the engine.
http://www.feulingparts.com/troubleshooting.php
10. Question:
I was told not to use brake cleaner when cleaning my brakes. Why?
Answer:
BrakeKleen should not hurt the rubber or seals on your brake calipers. To clean the pistons can use a soft nylon brush (not wire) with some degreaser such as the orange citrus household cleaner. That orange stuff really does work well on engine parts. After cleaning the caliper pistons put a drop of the proper brake fluid on each piston where it meets the rubber seal. Yes, you can use brake cleaner on a metal disk brake rotor, but not on any nearby electrical sensors.
11. Question:
I plan to install a large 26" front wheel on my bike. Will it upset handling?
Answer:
That big wheel is a giant gyroscope and it is going to be tiresome to break it's gyro power effect on each turn or lane change you make. It will be a big mistake, but to those who love that look the handling trade-off will be absorbed. A big fat rear tire does the same thing and yet many riders installed them anyway to look cool. The contact patch to the road on that front wheel is tiny which makes the likelihood of crashing from loss of traction is vastly increased. Hitting an object with a low profile tire can bend that expensive wheel and even cause a devastating blow out. Those rims are not DOT legal, so any cop can make you tow the bike off the road and give you a repair ticket if they want to. A better option to consider is to go with a 23" wheel and install a Bolt On Bagger 23" Tree with a matching front fender.
http://pickardusa.com/
I cannot personally make a comment on the preceding paragraph, as I have never run anything over 21" on the front end. It has some logical sounding points, but it still comes down to riding preference, style, & skill. I have read where some experience riders have trouble controlling the larger wheels, then others say they are quite comfortable with them. Maybe before you lay out your cash, you should find one that you can test ride.
12. Question:
What is a go/no-go feeler gauge?
Answer:
These feelers are usually used to measure valve stem clearances. The first section of the feeler gauge is the correct size. You insert the first half under the cam follower and over the valve stem. If you push the feeler gauge further and it does not go further then you know the clearance is just right. That second portion half of the feeler gauge is .002 larger. If the second half does go further it means the clearance is too loose. You don't need to use these dummy devices. If there is a slight drag to the feeler gauge when inserting and removing the feeler gauge that is the correct way to perform the measurement. Some bikes may make it easier and quicker to use the go/no-go gauge if getting the feeler into position is tough to do then by all means use them.
13. Question:
Do I have to purge air from the oil drain line on a Harley?
Answer:
The long winded answer that was provided for this question wasn't really worth reading.
When I do an oil change, I drain the oil completely through the drain plug of the oil tank, then I remove the filter and let the line drain for a while. After reinstalling the drain plug with a new gasket, I fill the tank with most of the recommended oil volume. At this point I start the engine and observe the filter feed line till the oil runs clear. Then, putting some fresh oil in the new filter, install it properly, then run the engine again for a couple minutes. Any air will be purged and the parts of the engine will have enough oil residue to survive the sequence. Top up the oil tank to specs & you are ready to go.
14. Question:
What is a bagger motorcycle?
Answer:
You can say any big, fat, heavy, touring bike with a fairing with stretch hard saddle bags qualify. Even Honda in 2013 came out with what they call a Goldwing bagger, imagine that! But, "real" baggers are turning out to be American V-Twin engine custom bikes with a bagger theme including custom paint, large bicycle-like front wheel, slammed low, raked fork with humongous saddlebags, fat gas tank. boom-box stereo system and illegally tall ape hanger handle bars with deep and long wheel fenders, lots of custom engine bling covers, low profile tires and custom seat is the "bagger look" these days, but it is still not a true bagger unless the engine is bored out for power. A stock engine bagger is a thing of shame! James Russell's advice? Stay away from these monstrosities. They will soak your savings account dry in no time at all and nobody will be impressed with your bagger 'cause there's too many of them already out there. However, the fad must go on, for now at least, until the next fad comes around and when it does nobody will want your bagger and you'll be stuck with it. The guys making the money are those who sell new Harley's and those who sell bagger parts and accessories. Believe me, you won't earn a dime with your bagger unless you build a one-off custom and win the Sturgis bike show.
I don't think this James Russell guy likes anything but a brand new stock Sportster. I found another article he did on baggers, which I will get into later. :-)
15. Question:
What about accessories for motorcycles, a source that is not Harley?
Answer:
Go to a independent motorcycle parts store or repair shop and look at their counter parts catalogs. You will see rows of them. From there, get the names of the catalogs then search the Internet and request catalog or download a PDF catalog. Motorcycle rallies also have some catalogs available, but not all. The Internet also has many parts suppliers but can be hard to find even using search engines. Competition Accessories is a good company along with Motorcycle Superstore, & JC Motors. Try not to do business with companies that charge restocking fees when they make mistakes. Buy elsewhere. Check their FAQ and Return Policy online before you place an order. Never trust any verbal "override guarantee" for the written policy always rules and always wins if your salesperson lied to you and you have to return the product. Also use a credit card so you have dispute protection and make sure they don't charge you any fees for using your credit card to buy merchandise.
Well, that's it for this session.....
Stay Tuned for Part Two....
Happy Trails.....
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