The Biker Lifestyle: February 2015

Sunday, 22 February 2015

HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTORCYCLE ADVICE - Part Five

This is the continuation of one of James Russell's articles that contains useful information.

Due to his opinion differing from mine in many ways, I have edited some things to suit my way of thinking.
All the information contained in this article does not just pertain to Harley Davidson Motorcycles, it can be presumed that it applies to all motorcycles, where not specifically implied.

I have been injecting James Russell's name into some places to show that was his opinion, not mine. Now if you read this it will be unchanged. Anything that is to credited to me will be in orange text, while the original text will be in blue.

Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly. ~Author Unknown

Part Five.....

60. Question:

What is an index washer for on a spark plug?

Answer:

This is a special washer that is mounted between the shoulder of the spark plug and sealing gasket. Its purpose is to align the spark plug's ground electrode to face away from the center of the combustion chamber. This positions the electrical arcing spark in full unobstructed view to better ignite the fuel mixture. Each indexing washer is of a different thickness and by varying the thickness the ground electrode is rotated away from the view of the combustion chamber, but the spark is in full view. When you remove your spark plug just draw a line down the porcelain insulator indicating where the "L" shape electrode is located, then use a index washer to see if the size you selected will relocate that electrode. TC and Sportster engines can get 8 horsepower with a increase in fuel mileage using this very simple technique. That is like a free Stage-1 tune up for a couple dollars. Believe it or not! Drag racing guys use this indexing all of the time. There are no bad effects, just more power and works with all motorcycle engines.

61. Question:

A mechanic told me they don't let the oil drain for 30 minutes from the engine compartments because they do not have time to waste. That made me think that perhaps they are doing it wrong?

Answer:

I can tell you from experience what that mechanic says is true. They don't have time to waste. They just remove the drain plug, drain the oil and replace the drain plug and move on to the next oil compartment. They don't even level the bike and let more dirty oil drain out. Is it harmful? Yes, because the most dirtiest oil is always the last to be removed. If this dirty oil is not removed it will contaminate the new clean oil with gritty abrasive material that will wear your engine out. Good for the engine repairer, not good for you wallet. Harley's need clean oil to function and to keep cool. A tiny grain of dirt will clog the hydraulic lifters and hydraulic cam chain tensioners to ruin. Learn to change your own oil on your Harley or you will pay dearly relying on others who will always do it wrong and cheat you. Even inferior oil can be substituted in your engine and you'll never know it until it is too late. As you can see, even going to a H-D dealer for your oil change will leave dirty crud oil in your engine, transmission and primary chain system because they are not going to keep your bike on the lift waiting 30 minutes for most all of the black oil to drain. They will have an "apprentice" do the job anyway and they will teach him to do the job "quickly" I guarantee it for time is money in those shops. When you get your bike from an oil change just ride the bike for an hour, check the oil and it will be dirty oil. That's because the oil black oil was not drained out completely and has contaminated and "ruined" your expensive oil change. Live and learn.

62. Question:

Can you explain the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act?

Answer:

You can go online and search for the law (US Code-Title 15, Chapter 50) for deep details. (ftc.gov). I have keep the explanation down here to one paragraph. Many dealers violate the law routinely when they say you must use Harley-Davidson oil and oil filter to retain your warranty and/or you must have your bike serviced by an authorized H-D dealership to keep your warranty. It is a lie and a law violation. The dealer must give you the oil and parts for free to make such an offer. The law basically give you, the consumer, freedom to perform your own repairs, use aftermarket parts and not lose your warranty. But there is a problem. To keep your warranty, you should, if you do your own repairs, use authentic Harley-Davidson parts and oil. Not that you have to, but you "slam-shut" the door of a dealer voiding your warranty and you having to fight tooth and nail to regain your warranty. The law specifies conditions, but the law does not do the fighting for you to retain your rights. You have to sue in court to win your case. Win you will, if you used H-D parts and oil. If you used aftermarket parts and oil you can win or lose in court. Problem is, the aftermarket companies that want your money and lure you to buy their products could fail, ruin your engine and refuse to help you win your case. Now you got to sue H-D and the aftermarket companies to win you case and both will be fighting against you with experts to ruin your case so you lose and have to pay their court costs and attorney fees. This is why I say to stay with Harley-Davidson parts and oil to keep your warranty. You can do the job yourself, no problem with that. As long as you use H-D parts and oil it is hard for H-D to win a case against you or void your warranty in the first place. The same goes with fuel management devices as they can easily void your warranty if you burn valves or a bore a hole in a piston... a direct result of lean burn and the fuel manager controls that function so it is easy to blame as the cause of engine failure, an iron-clad case against you. If you put a aftermarket Cobra Fi-2000 Pro fuel controller on your bike it could void your warranty, but you would have to had ignored obvious backfiring, rough idle, hesitating engine and knock and pinging noises revealing the device clearly is not working properly. And, you would have to ride punishingly hard at high rpm's to blow a hole in the piston. So, using the Cobra Fi-2000 Pro is likely okay if the bike runs smoothly, which it probably will. Dealers are not so prone to void warrantees, but H-D corporate will if they determine you modified the engine and controls with aftermarket devices. Legally, they can void your warranty if these devices damaged the engine. No law can help you fix that. Your only hope will be the aftermarket manufacturer will take up your case and sue for you. Sometimes they do this to protect their own future sales of their products. Oh, local repair shops can work on your new bike too, but they can not perform warranty-related repairs. If you use a local shop for repairs make sure they list the product name on all parts and oil used (most shops don't itemize so precisely) but you need this to fight a warranty claim. You need to prove you put in a "high grade name brand" oil in the engine, not just "oil". I say it again, learn to change the oil on your own bike... this is the best way to preserve your warranty and the engine's life.

This is an American Act, with the Canadian Consumer Protection the closest to it.

63. Question:

Can I turn my brake rotors like they do in cars?

Answer:

No. Reason being the rotors are already too thin when brand new. Each rotor is stamped with a minimum thickness and you will see it does not take much normal wear and tear to reach this limit. There just is not enough metal meat on the rotors to begin with to allow any grinding on brake rotors. Even the heat of the lathe can crack a thin motorcycle rotor. The thickness limit is to be respected, so check your rotors with a micrometer in the wearing surface areas. A thin rotor can quickly overheat, shatter into pieces and cause you to crash with a front wheel bind and skid. Harley-Davidson rotors are not expensive compared to metric bikes that can cost you $300 each! The cost of metric bike parts are outrageous. Just another great reason to buy and stay with Harley-Davidson. You should get 30,000 miles out of your front wheel rotors even with aggressive and abrasive racing brake pads and 45,000 miles with street sintered metal pads. The rear wheel rotor can last twice as long.

64. Question:

What can happen if I use the wrong brake fluid in my bike?

Answer:

Brake failure can happen. DOT 4 fluid yellow and DOT 5 is purple. The rubber parts in the system will deteriorate and cause sudden brake failure. Tiny bits of rubber just clog up all the tiny passages in the lines, calipers and master cylinders which requires time-consuming flushing and cleaning. Water is another issue that creates corrosion of caliper/master cylinder pistons and bores. The wrong brake fluid if it does not destroy rubber seals can prematurely heat up and boil with a loss of braking control. Nasty things happen! Always check the owner manual and master cylinder caps for the correct oil to use. What if you find a conflict? The owner manual says to use DOT 4 and the Master Cylinder cap says to use DOT 5? You may need to reinstall all new components because some prior owner has altered your brakes. If you don't see tiny specks of black rubber in the brake fluid all may be well, just use the fluid rated on the oil reservoir caps. This does not happen with new bikes. Brake fluid should last 50,000 miles before a flush. If you see bits of rubber in the oil that does not mean the wrong oil is used, but normal wear of rubber parts is taking place. Consider overhauling the brake calipers and master cylinder with new brake lines.

All brake fluids are mixable except for DOT 5, which will not mix with any other. All brake fluids are water soluble except DOT 5, which means that they are prone to absorbing water which can cause problems. To check, look at the color, DOT 5 is generally purple, and if a drop is placed in water, it will not mix, while others will be absorbed into the water.

65. Question:

I was told if I switch to Royal Purple Synthetic oil my engine will run cooler. Is this possible?

Answer:

Oil does cool the engine so it is possible. Royal Purple's Synthetic Max-Cycle 20w-50 engine oil is claimed to lower engine temperature with the use of thermal imaging showing a 50 degree temperature reduction in some hot areas of the engine as proof. But I have no way to verify it and I have not tried it. Going to Royal Purple's Website was so frustrating to negotiate to locate product and read the descriptions I backed out of the site. I was not impressed with the handsomely dysfunctional Website at all. You could install a larger Baker oil pan to reduce heat, or, better yet, install an oil cooler (or larger cooler) Jagg and be safe. To determine if you need an oil cooler purchase an oil temperature dip stick. Normal temps is 180-220 degrees Fahrenheit. If you get spikes above those temperatures it is still okay as long as the temps come back down within a minute. However, 240-260 up to 300 degrees is too much for the oil to handle and will begin to fail to lubricate the engine properly. Oil temperature that hovers at 240 degrees means you need an oil cooler. This is why some riders switch to Red Line 20w-50 synthetic oil for it lubricates up to 400 degrees. It can be fun to experiment with different brands of motorcycle engine oils. However, do not count out Harley-Davidson's Syn3 oil for it is really good stuff and I use it in my Harleys in all three oil compartments (engine, transmission, primary chain case). Only if you experience gear noise should you consider a thicker brand of oil for the transmission. Make sure when you buy an oil cooler it has a automatic thermostat to stop the oil flow into the oil cooler on cold days.

Amsoil is another good quality product.

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/product-categories/motorcycle/ http://bakerdrivetrain.com/plus-1-5-oil-pan

http://www.jagg.com/

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=8

http://www.harley-davidson.com/store/syn3-full-synthetic-motorcycle-lubricant---sae-20w51-pa-12-62600005--1

66. Question:

I had a Harley-Davidson dealer download a Stage-1 map on my bike, but it runs lousy. What could cause this?

Answer:

The Harley-Davidson generic maps in their tuner software is for stock Harley-Davidson's for H-D performance products only. If you have installed aftermarket exhaust pipes that are not Harley-Davidson those maps will only give a starting point for a proper tune-up, but it will not tune-up your engine perfectly. You need a custom tuning job. The dealer's mechanic should have known better and you should go back and request they custom tune the bike or refund your money. Make sure the two fuel injector's wires are secure to the injector as a loose connection will cause erratic vibration and poor performance. They will balk for the Harley-Davidson Screaming Eagle Street Performance Tuner Kit is "married" to the bike. It can't just be used again on another bike. This is why I warn riders to stay clear of these devices and aftermarket devices that are "married" to the bike. There are products that you just install and they self-tune the bike and you can take it with you when you buy another bike (or at least a similar model). Why do they do this? So they can slam you with hundreds of dollars each time you buy another bike for another performance tune-up. Don't fall for it, don't buy their product. Check out: Cobra Fi2000 PowrPro.

http://cobrausa.com/inside_cobra/behind_the_scenes/58/fi2000_powrpro_how_it_works/

http://www.thunder-max.com/Products/ThunderMaxEFISystems.aspx

67. Question:

Where can I buy high performance parts for my Harley-Davidson?

Answer:

There are many sources. All you need is Google or some other good search engine. Or just go talk to your Friendly Neighborhood Independent Bike Shop.

68. Question:

Just how devastating is it to have a hydraulic valve lifter fail in a Harley-Davidson?

Answer:

It can be just a simple replacement of the lifter, but in severe cases if the bearings have failed or the lifter has sized in the lifter block bore hole and sheared metal you will need to clean the cam chest of metal pieces, oil pump, oil pump screen (Evo engine right-rear corner of the rear tappet block), oil lines, oil passages, oil tank and depending on condition and engine model a complete engine teardown to clean up the mess.

In an older engine, it could take out the breather screen and the cam.

69. Question:

Dealer told me I must replace the rear wheel brake rotor when the front wheel rotors are replaced. True?

Answer:

Generally, on most bikes this is not true, but on bikes with shared-link braking it can be a requirement to replace all the disk brake rotors at the same time. It can be a "come on" sales builder to tell people they need all brake pad and rotors replaced at the same time. The front wheel, yes. Rear wheel, not likely unless the pads and rotor are worn down which may be the case.
Many riders use the front brakes more than the rear so that the rear setup will outlast two or more front changes.
70. Question:

I installed a Jagg oil cooler and the rubber hoses leak. What am I doing wrong?

Answer:

Jagg uses single barb hose fittings. I wrote them and informed them a multi-barb fitting would be way better to stop oil leaks. They still use the single barb. To stop the oil leaks you got to crank down those hose clamps so it crushes the rubber hose real tight to the fitting. Why? Because one barb is just not enough to create a labyrinth-type seal. You can replace the fitting on the oil filter adapter, but not on the oil filter and oil thermostat. Just crush down the rubber tight to the fitting using a tiny 1/4" open-end wrench. You will see the rubber under the hose clamp is much smaller in diameter than the unclamped hose, then you got it right. If you go too far you will strip the hose clamp. Just in case, I keep a spare 1/4" hose clamp and 1/4" wrench in my saddlebags just in case it fails. You can buy stronger case-hardened hose clamps on the Internet such as, Amazon.com, or your local suppliers.

71. Question:

Please explain the compensator sprocket on Harley's.

Answer:

The engine drive sprocket is a spring-loaded device that is allowed to wind up and relax to take up the shocks of the 45 degree firing angles of the pistons that create powerful damaging pulse forces into the drivetrain all the way back to the rear wheel. It is nothing but a shock absorber for the engine out to smooth out the flow of power. The compensator was originally installed in 1970 big twins up to 2011. With the 103-cubic-inch engine's increased power and riders loading up large saddlebags with added weight the compensator was too weak and failed much too often, so a new upgrade is now used. Millions of Harley's below 103c.i. should upgrade to the new Screaming Eagle compensator or risk failure. The upgraded compensator has longer and steeper ramps with a multi-stage spring and is about 7 times stronger. This one is not going to break!

72. Question:

What is the problem with helical-cut transmission gears?

Answer: Straight-cut gears produce no sideways force on the transmission shaft, but they can be noisy. Helical-cut gears are in constant contact with each other so there is no noise, but they produce powerful axial forces on the transmission shafts. A very strong thrust bearing and case must be designed to handle this load. The problem is people are making helical gears for transmissions in cases with weak thrust bearing and a case not designed to handle the load. That's the basic problem.

73. Question:

Should oil be changed hot or cold?

Answer:
Hot oil can burn skin at 200+degrees. Cold oil flows slowly and has the tendency to allow sludge to settle out of the oil before it has been drained. This settling will allow sludge to fall into voids in the casing that will not be drained out with the oil. When you add new oil this sludge contaminates the fresh oil. Warm oil is best. However, it really does not matter if the oil is hot or warm as long as you do change the oil often so the engine always has clean oil. Harley-Davidson engines have a lot of blow-by at the pistons due to the loose tolerance fitment for an air-cooled engine. It means products of combustion leak past the piston rings dirtying the oil. The black color you see is mostly carbon mixed with acid and it is abrasive as fine sandpaper and corrosive too. Don't wait until the oil is black, but change it when it is a caramel brown color. When the engine is cold just place a drop of oil on your finger tip suing a plastic glove for protection. This will show the real color. It will always look black if you just look into the oil tank or case reservoir.

74. Question:

My dealer says nothing is wrong with my vibrating bike. What can I do to reduce the vibration?

Answer:

Assuming nothing mechanical like an out of tune motor or broken motor mount you can try isolating the vibrations. Riders for years have filled their hollow handlebars with shotgun shell lead shot, copper or steel BB's or beach sand to absorb the energy. It works on vibration but not on "shakes" from the engine throbs. There is no cure for for throbbing as that's just a Harley thing. It works for vibration "buzzing" that creates numbness in the hands. You could insert the shot, BB's and sand or a mixture of all three into a cardboard tube sealed at both ends then insert the tubes into the bar ends. Lead will work best and copper second due to their high density to absorb vibration energy. Bizmuth shot will also work and is less toxic than lead. Be aware some bars have studs welded into the bores so you will have to drill out these studs. Another method is to attach bar end weights on the end of the handlebar grips. You may find that slipping on some soft foam handgrips over your current grips will help. They do sell rubber and gel isolation handgrips too that will take out some vibration. Ask your dealer if they can recommend some rubber-mounted handlebar supports if rubber mounts do not exist on your bike. Bar Snake has a liquid you can pour into your handlebars to absorb vibration and will work with all Harley-Davidson handlebars. Check them out.
http://www.barsnake.com/

75. Question:

Which type of torque wrench should I buy?

Answer:

The click type is the best for bolts 10mm and up in sizes. The dial or beam type is used for smaller size nuts and bolts because you can "feel" the pressure being applied along with reading the torque wrench so you will not strip the fine nut/bolt threads. It is a more gentle approach. The click type is fairly brutal and should always be used with larger size nuts/bolts. Plus, if you do not hear the "click" due to loud music in the workspace you will strip the nut/bolt. It takes some practice using torque wrenches as you can feel excessive pressure being applied in all torque wrenches if you pay attention. The 3/8" torque wrench is used on small size nut/bolts and the 1/2" torque wrench is used on larger sizes such as 17mm nut/bolts and up. You should buy both sizes. The dial or beam type you only need one, the 3/8" size. But you also need a 1/2" breaker bar ratchet so you will not be using your torque wrench to loosen things like large axle bolts, sprockets, etc.

76. Question:

What is your opinion on the Scavenger system to change oil?

Answer:

I have not used it, but if it can remove dirty oil from the engine compartment all the better to use it. It won't get all the dirty oil out of the smaller hidden compartments. It also will not remove any dirty oil from external oil lines to the oil cooler, so a slug of dirty oil is still waiting to contaminate the new oil. The Scavenger system works, but it still allows the oil to become black and again and again.

77. Question:

How do I center a front wheel?

Answer:

With the bike sitting upright tape two flat boards of wood to each side of the front tire then with a ruler measure the distance between the inside surfaces of the wood boards. This make it easy to get a measurement. If you try to just measure across the diameter of the tire your eyes will play tricks on you. Divide the number of the width on the ruler by 2. The number you get is the center of the tire, so place a mark there. Now measure the distance between the forks from the inside to inside. Divide that number by two. That number should be exactly at the center of the tire where you made your first mark. If not, use different size wheel hub spool spacers to adjust the wheel so it is dead center true position.

78. Question:

If I install a new 6-speed transmission will I get the same performance as the new Harley's?

Answer:

No. Reason being the gearing in the primary chain case is still different than your 5-speed bike. You need to update the primary gearing. It is now costing you a lot of money to do this upgrade. Consider buying a new Harley before you dump a ton of money into an older bike that has few of the new features available. You may not need a 6-speed transmission. Just changing the size of your belt pulley sprockets can give you low engine rpm's on the highway. This is also the cheapest way to go. Your pulley's and belt are likely old and worn anyway and due for a change. I believe altering the belt drive pulleys' sprocket sizes in this case is better than changing the steel sprocket sizes in the primary chain case, but it is a viable option.

79. Question:

What causes noise from the primary case on the new H-D Cruise Drive transmissions?

Answer:

This transmission is noisy by nature. Not that it is right, it is also not harmful. The sixth-gear chatters, fifth-gear has backlash clatter, a "bang" noise will be heard with the engine starts and if you pull in the clutch lever just a bit you will hear "clack" sound. These sounds are normal assuming your primary chain tension is okay (not too loose sloppy play in the chain) no worn out chain adjuster glide pad or failing compensator or broken clutch spring or bad bearings. As new models role out you can expect to see improvements in the transmission design. Until then, the noise is normal and will not cause harm.

80. Question:

How do I true a spoke wheel?

Answer:

It is very easy to do and if you have spoke wheels you really do need to learn how to keep the spokes true. First, purchase a spoke nipple wrench to fit your wheel's spoke. You may need two different sizes, one for the front wheel and one for the rear wheel. Using standard open-end wrenches is a bad idea, use the right tool for the job. Elevate the bike just enough so you can rotate the wheel. Do not let the bike slip off the jack. You can use a jack under the frame of the bike with the side stand down to leverage the wheel off the ground with no chance the bike will fall over as long as the force is against the side stand. Using a spoke wrench lightly rap on each spoke. You should hear a nice sharp "ping" noise indicating the spoke is tight. If you hear a "thud" or "clunk" noise the spoke is loose or broken. With the spoke wrench tighten the loose spoke until it "pings" again. If it will not ping or tighten the spoke is broken and may need to be replaced in the future. Spokes usually break at the wheel hub or the hub itself may be cracked, or the spoke nipple threads in the rim is stripped. Mark it with some white paint for now. Keep rotating the wheel tightening all the loose spokes. Generally, it does not take much to tighten a spoke, usually only 1/4 to 3/4 turn, more if really lose of course. Tighten the spokes in small increments of 1/8 to 1/4 inch turns. If you tighten too much you can actually drive the spoke deep into the rim to puncture the inner tube, so never over-tighten spokes. When you have all the spokes sounding the same "tone" you are close to perfect. Now, the wheel may be out of true. You can set up two dial micrometers or two cloth hanger wires as a poor man's substitute. One dial is set on the side of the rim to measure side-to-side wobble run out. The other is set on the inner side of the rim to measure top-to-bottom wheel hop. Here's how easy it is to true a wire-spoke wheel: If the rim wobbles to the left, loosen the spoke on the left side 1/4 turn and tighten the spoke on the right 1/4 to 1/2 turn. You will notice the spokes alternate between left and right the way they are inserted into the rim. If the wheel hops high at the 12 o'clock position, loosen the spokes at that 12 o'clock position and tighten the spokes at the 6 o'clock position. When working on wheel "hop" try loosening or tightening 4 spokes at a time as a group to adjust out the wheel "hop". You may not get the job absolutely perfect the first time as it is a tedious job and it can be baffling the first time you try it. I will give you a great tip. Go to a bike shop, swap meet or junk yard and buy an old used spoke wheel then practice on that before you do your own bike. You can't screw up anything that way and you will not become so flabbergasted or angry if things take a bit of practice to get it right. It is not hard to do. Just work slowly, relax and enjoy the learning experience. We mechanics all had to learn too at one time or another!

81. Question:

What is the white dot on the tire indicate?

Answer:

It is a balance mark. The tire is close to balance when new, but where the inner plies are seamed at joints it can cause a thickened area that is slightly heavy at that point. So, opposite the heavy point on the tire they put a white doge. This tells us mechanics to put the white dot (lightest point on the tire) beside the heavy point valve stem. There are exceptions to this rule when working with heavy wheels, but for most cases this is the correct procedure. If you have new tires put on your street bike by a shop and the white dot is not aligned with the valve stem do not panic. It really does not make much difference on most street production bikes. You'll hardly ever notice the imbalance.

82. Question:

A dealer mentioned to properly balance a motorcycle wheel and tire, a spin balancer must be used or it will be performed improperly. Is this true?

Answer:

It is a bold-face lie. The dynamic spin balancer machine is just a machine for absolute dummy employees. Without going into a rage I will prove it by telling you to go to any professional motorcycle road race and in the pit area you will see the best machine used to balance wheels. That machine is the manually operated static balancer and is even more accurate than the dynamic spin balancer! It is also the same device I tell readers of my tire change book to purchase. You can buy the static balancing machine for less than $100. The automatic dynamic spin-type balancer does work, but so does the static balancing method. You can even put a round metal axle in a cloth-wrapped bench vice, slip the wheel on the axle and balance the wheel with no machine whatsoever.

83. Question:

I thought Harley-Davidson fixed the cam chain shoe problem, but you say they have not. Explain why?

Answer:

The shoe material was not just the problem it was the severe spring tension pushing the shoe wickedly hard against the chain. Harley made some changes to the shoe material which is now a nylon formulation and the flat chain is now a roller chain along with the removal of the springs as a oil hydraulic piston now applies pressure to the roller chain driving the gears. The problem? There are still "shoes" rubbing against the new cam chains. There are two cam chains; inner and outer chains. Since there's less tension on the chain due to the hydraulic-controlled piston, the "shoes" will last longer. However, as you can see, lasting longer does not mean "cure" it only means the shoes will now wear out later, down the road, as the engine racks up miles... but if you do not inspect and replace those shoes the same thing is going to happen... the engine will self-destruct. The system needs a complete redesign, not a patch. The cam chest in the Twin-Cam engine is a rat's nest of chains, rubbing tensioner shoes packed with an oil pump in a tiny space. If you compare the T-C cam chest to the Sportster engine you will see how the Sportster engine's cams are horizontally driven gears which is exactly what locomotive and industrial engines use (a perfect system). So, even installing an aftermarket gear drive system in the T-C engine is not a fix as those gears are "stacked" vertically and that will destroy the crankshaft bending the pinion shaft causing excessive pinion shaft runout. That means even if you replace the crankshaft it will only bend again and again and again. No cure. As it stands, all Twin-Cam engines are still defective. And if you still don't believe it, just buy some current and back issues of V-Twin related motorcycle magazines. It's not a secret, but not many Harley riders want to talk about it and many prefer to retain an "ignorance is bliss" attitude.

84. Question:

What is crankshaft runout. Is it good or bad?

Answer:

The Harley-Davidson crankshaft is a huge, heavy, unbalanced beast due to the 45 degree firing angle. It will vibrate like a monster and that is why the balanced engine has internal flywheels to counter the imbalance and other models are rubber mounted isolation so the engine can shake at will without causing your eyes to hemorrhage. The Twin-Cam engine crankshaft has problems of its own and one of the biggest issues other than flywheel slippage (which is serious) is crankshaft runout. Runout is bad, never good and is usually referred to the right side pinion shaft that drives the oil pump, cams, lifters and valves. There's a lot of pressure on that tiny thin shaft which is also relatively long in length and if you ride hard, pull wheelies, burnouts, hop up the engine power output, etc., that shaft will bend ever so slightly. Even stock engines ridden sensibly have some runout and it can still grind away at the engine causing it to fail. Runout places accelerated wear and tear on the crankshaft case bearing(s), wears the face of the oil pump and can wobble the gear rotors in the oil pump, grinds wear lines in the pinion shaft and grooves the camplate bushings (or wear roller bearings). The grooving means metal is being ground up and is being circulated in the oil to destroy bearings and bushings. These "fines" will not be caught by the oil filter, but "steel fines" will be trapped in a magnetic oil filter. You should buy an external magnet and attach it to your oil filter. Harley permits .015" runout which is still excessive and wear as described above occurs. The cure is to have your crankshaft balanced, trued and the crankpin and flywheel webs "welded" and that's what needs to be done. Yes, the runout issue is curable. Sportsters can have a pinion shaft runout problem too that will wear out the worm gear on the pinion shaft that drives the oil pump. That gear (on XL model engines) is so easy to replace it is a do-it-yourself replacement. You just remove the cam cover, remove the pinion shaft nut, remove the cam drive gear then the oil pump worm gear (two bolts to remove/loosen oil pump housing). Replace the worm gear and reinstall the other items. So easy! There is nothing else that will be ruined in a Sportster, just that one worm drive gear. The Twin-Cam engine, on the other hand, is a disaster when the pinion shaft runout becomes excessive, it causes the end of the shaft to wobble like an unstable child's toy top. That up and down wobbling (radial up-and-down runout is the issue not axial left-to-right runout) causes metal parts to wear out. Advice? Ride easy with no abrupt slamming of the transmission gears that can cause crankshaft flywheel to suddenly lose rotational velocity such as pulling a wheelie. That sudden "slamming" on the crankshaft will bend both ends of the crankshaft; the right side pinion shaft and the left side that drives the primary chain. Hard downshifting can do it too, so don't let the rear wheel skid. Use synthetic engine oil or at least a blend of 70% mineral and 30% synthetic or 50%-50%. Harley TC crankshafts has problems and it will break if you abuse it and it will wobble naturally until you have yours balanced, trued and welded. But don't let a Harley dealer do it as they won't because Harley will not permit it or warranty the repair. It has to be performed by an aftermarket firm. S&S is one firm that can do it for you. Unfortunately, it is expensive to tear down the entire engine. I would just ride with good grade, clean oil with a magnet on the the oil filter, ride sanely and live to ride. But eventually you'll have to deal with the defects because they will surface and it will cost you a lot of money to fix the engine. A much stronger crankshaft is needed to address these problems.

85. Question:

I thought factory-trained Harley-Davidson mechanics were working on my bike. What gives?

Answer:

Surprise! Surprise! Just because a Harley-Davidson dealer is an authorized dealer does not mean they have factory-trained mechanics working on your bike. In fact, there may be none on site! I have seen plastered on the wall diploma certificates of "Harley-Davidson Trained Mechanics" who are not even working at the dealership anymore. How about that for deception, huh? Seeing those authentic diplomas laced on the wall makes you think a factory-trained mechanic is doing you right, but you can't trust it to be true for it is just another deception used by repair shops and dealers to trick you into believing a lie. I saw a Victory dealer do it too recently. It's not just a Harley thing here, it is widespread. Rule #1 is this; assume people in the motorcycle and auto repair industry are lying to you for they most likely are. Trust, but verify! But even if they do have a factory-trained mechanic on duty does not mean he/she will be working on your bike. Helpers are probably changing your oil, installing tires and accessories. They have low skills and you would be better off learning to do these routine tasks yourself and know the job is being done right.

That covers Part Five.....

Stay tuned for Part Six.......

Happy Trails.....

Tuesday, 17 February 2015

HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTORCYCLE ADVICE - Part Four

Harley-Davidson Service - Only $99.99

We Perform A Comprehensive Vehicle Inspection

Inspect Fuel Petcock

Inspect Brake Pads

Inspect Fork Alignment

Inspect Triple Trees

Inspect Front Wheel Fall-Away

Change Engine Oil

Check Charging System

Check Battery

Change Transmission Oil

Check Clutch Adjustment

Inspect Air Cleaner

Change Primary Oil

Check Throttle and Cable

Inspect Clutch Cable

Check Tire Pressure

Test Wheel Spokes for Looseness

Check Headlight Aim

Check Turn Signals & Brake Lights

Replace Oil Filter

Inspect Tire Wear & Damage

Examine Wheel Rims

Examine Wheel Bearings

Check Brake Function

Same Day Service Only $10 more!

Nasty Mc'Nasties Cycle Repair

148 Fallen Angel Avenue

Reno, Nevada

The problem with the above advertisement is filled with Tomfoolery nonsense. The only thing being performed is a routine oil change... and the quality of the oil and filter is unknown. Odds are you will get inferior oil and pay $100 for the privilege. The ad is trying to mimic the "Service Intervals" dealers enjoy posting that also list a bunch of things that do not really need to be performed by anyone else but the "owner" as non-technical in nature. Look at the ad one more time and imagine if each item needed "attention" such as oil, lubing, adjusting and you can see your $100 oil change will soon be a $350 or higher repair bill. Hey, this is how the industry bilks people. Wise up to it.

I will give you a great tip of advice. When you pick up your bike, make sure you only pay and agree for the oil change. The inspection was to be free. Any problems they show you have them subject to a second opinion at another shop, but do not fall for getting the bike fixed at that first shop or you will be bilked. The free inspection service is just a scam to look for little defects or wear items then scare you into getting them fixed ASAP. So, here's the end result you need... you pay only for the oil change and get out of there! Deal with the other problems at another time and place. The ad you see above is a come-on scam advertisement. The moment you walk into the door asking about the service special they label you as a "sucker" and they will turn the screws. And they do it with a smile and with great politeness. Smiling assassins they are!

48. Question:

A repair shop told me I need new brake lines. They did not seem damaged at all. Are they scamming me or what?

Answer:

Maybe they are shot. It is a common practice by dealers to push new brake lines when overhauling calipers. If you see no exterior damage that does not mean damage is not present. If the inner liner is collapsed it will prevent brake fluid to flow in the brake line and the caliper pistons will not retract and will not have strong braking power, so this could be the reason you need new lines. Another reason is the brake lines over 10-years old, There is a date stamped on the lines. After ten years replace the lines. Why not upgrade and replace the brake lines with stronger metal braided lines? They are much better than rubber/plastic coated lines because the hose can not expand giving you firm and quick braking control.

48. Question:

Can I install carbon brakes on my bike?

Answer:

Carbon/carbon brake "rotors" are racing only and they need heat to work, they wear out fast and they absorb water so they are useless in the rain. A company is making street rotors of a carbon matrix that wear as well as metal rotors, work when cold and in the rain. Brake Tech USA may have rotors to fit Harley-Davidson so check with them and other companies. Yes, you can absolutely use carbon fiber brake pads on your Harley and you will love the stopping power they will give you, but black dust will dirty your wheels. The dust comes off with one wipe, but it does get old trying to keep the wheel rims and calipers. It will not hurt to try them! Ferodo (Federal-Mogul) makes brake pads that Ferrari uses on their cars. They have been used on big bikes and they are wonderful brakes, but they are hard on the rotors. You could get up to 1/3 less life on the rotors. But, if you need stopping power something has got to give! First try carbon fiber as they seem to be just as powerful if not better and less wear on the rotors. Thankfully, H-D solid-disk non-floating rotors are generally inexpensive to replace. The best place to find brake pads, rotors and calipers is with those huge motorcycle catalogs accessories stores have such as Drag Specialties from Parts Canada.

http://ecat.ferodoracing.com/#

http://www.partscanada.com/catalogues

49. Question:

I need compression releases and my mechanic needs to drill holes in my cylinder heads. I can't afford this! Help.

Answer:

To the rescue! All new 103-inch Harley's come with electronic compression releases. If your engine does not have them there is no longer any need to drill holes in the cylinder heads to install compression releases to make starting easier. You can install S&S cams with automatic compression releases built into the cams and this is the best route by far to go for reliability. A cheaper alternative (no repair shop will tell you) is that there is a product that screws into the existing spark plug hole! Imagine that. Now imagine the hundreds of dollars you save! And, you can do it yourself. Spyke FyrStryke makes them and even Amazon.com sells them. As with all "threaded" compression release products carry a spare compression release. With the Spyke FyrStryke carry a standard set of spark plugs in case it too fails when you are touring or far from home. Also, make certain you get the proper thread hole and thread pitch size and use a torque wrench to install or the device will blow right out of the cylinder head and it could damage the spark plug hole threads. Assuming this is the worst case you can install a Helicoil to fix the head threads. Since the heads are made of soft aluminum you just coat the tap with grease to catch the larger metal chips, vacuum out the chips on top of the piston to fix it. No need to remove the cylinder head. Tiny aluminum chips will just melt and blow out the exhaust pipe damaging nothing.

While saving time & expense, I personally do not recommend a plug thread repair with the head on the engine. Any debris in your engine is a recipe for disaster.

Spyke FyrStryke Compression Release

l Fits EVO Big Twins, Aftermarket, and Short Reach Shovelheads

l NOTE: Will not fit Twin Cam or bikes with screaming eagle heads

l NOTE: Will not fit Revtech motors with 12mm spark plugs

l State of the art spark plugs boost power and torque

l Short reach Shovelhead adapters available

l Perfect for hard starting and kick-start bikes

l Polished aluminum construction

l No machining necessary - simply change plugs!

l 14mm plugs

l Sold as a set

http://www.sscycle.com/go-fast-showcase/motorcycle-engine-components/easy-start-cams/

50. Question:

Should I have my bike repaired at a dealership or at an independent shop?

Answer:

If your bike is still under warranty you should use the dealer. Use an independent shop you trust, but know that if something goes wrong you are stuck dealing with that little shop and maybe some thug characters at that. You may not like the way they treat you. You may not like their policies. They may blame you for the problem and not honor their verbal warranty they gave to you. James Russell would suggest you bring your bike to a authorized Harley-Davidson dealership. Yes, you will pay more, but you will get the job done right the first time and if something does go wrong you got recourse to grieve your case to Harley-Davidson corporate customer service to get a resolution.

It seems that James Russell is flipping on some of his advisories. In one answer he trashes Dealerships while advocating aftermarket shops, now he is doing the opposite.

As I have said, unless you need warranty work find a mechanic who will treat you with respect and tell you the truth about what you need. Not all mechanics can fix all models of Harley, so find one that is familiar with what you are riding. Some aftermarket shops are quite reliable & trustworthy, but there are some with questionable morals. Sometimes a backyard mechanic who works out of his garage is a better choice. Ask around for other opinions. Talk to the people who will work on your bike. Do you feel comfortable around them? Do you trust their opinions as to what you need? Sometimes a good mechanic has to steer you away from bad ideas about upgrades to your bike & convince you of a better way.

51. Question:

What causes the "death wobble"?

Answer:

Dynas and baggers rubber-mounted engine and drivetrain is not rigidly attached to the chassis. The engine can flex front to rear but it can not roll or yaw and this permits the rear wheel to not track true with the front wheel and a severe wobble occurs. It is called a death wobble for a reason as it has killed riders from severe out of control oscillations. The bike will actually wobble and leave the road and crash. It really is a serious problem few desire to talk about. It affects bikes 1994 and up until H-D decides to fix it. So far, there is no real cure. Aftermarket stabilizers can be installed to help stiffen the engine to the frame, but it is not the perfect fix although way better than nothing. The death wobble can occur at normal highway speed or when passing cars. FL touring models have a thin and weak triple tree that can create ill handling problems. Install a strong Tour Trac Tree to fix that problem.

https://www.customcycleengineering.com/Product-Details/Desser_Tour_Trac_Trees-1

52. Question: I had my bike dyno-tuned and when I came to pick up the bike I was told bad news. The belt drive broke. Who is responsible for this?

Note: The following answer is worth reading, BUT, don't form a conclusion until you read my followup after it.

Answer:

You are. You should never put your bike on a dyno. I know it is common practice today, but the stress and strain on your engine, transmission, frame and tires and belt is brought to punishing and severe service. So much stress is applied to the rear wheel the belt can snap in two. Again, this is dangerous as the belt may not break and be severely damaged and you ride away and the belt breaks in traffic or on the freeway. It can also wrap around the rear wheel pulley and lock it into a nasty skit and crashing or wrap around the transmission pulley and snap, bend, warp the transmission shaft, knock the crankshaft out of balance crack engine/transmission cases. Nasty stuff. Dynos also damage the rear tire internally and that's why tire manufacturers warn they void the warranty if you dyno the bike with their tires installed. And... engines can break badly when dyno stress is applied. It is not like driving a bike on the street. The dyno overloads the rear wheel, transmission and engine way beyond what you could do on the street. It is worse than racing your bike on a drag strip. Horrific forces are applied by the dyno your motorcycle was never designed to endure and that's why you bike broke. It is also why dealers and shops love dynos for they stress your bike and you'll be back soon enough for repairs. Plus, they charged you good money for the privilege! Yes, you can install high performance parts without using a dyno. When you map the ECU you simply use a certified matched profile for your power kit installed. Dynos are being used to make money for those who own dynos. My advice is to stay away from dynos. When we built drag racing engines years past we didn't have dynos, nobody did. Now every shop has one and they are "dazzling" the masses of riders thinking they are needed. Magazines also dyno bikes a lot but they are finishing their article to measure horsepower change from stock. The Horse Magazine, February 2013 issue on page 80 shows a mechanic holding up a broken clean drive belt snapped-in-two when they were using the dyno. It happens. And most Harley riders do not understand dynos. Not all dynos can accurately simulate actual riding conditions. Only the newer dynos can automatically adjust load and inertia to any variable speed or torque and these that do are the water brake, DC or AC electric intelligent dynos. They are the only dynos that can accurately MAP the bike's ECM. And here's the catch... not many shops have one! It means you are getting shoddy dyno work and print out reports and you need to know one more thing... a lot of shops have dyno operators who do not know what they are doing! It means you are paying for inferior dyno work. I have seen dealers sucker people into having their bike dyno-tuned and for no other reason but to tell the customer it is needed and bill the customer $170 or more. It is a scam, so beware. Today you can flash your ECU with beautiful custom fuel management maps without using a dyno because the dyno work has already been done by the people who wrote the maps. Only really big inch custom engines with strange components may need a dyno turn, and that can be performed on an "engine dyno" that will not stress the transmission, drivetrain and tires and will measure "true" horsepower at the crankshaft. If you are lured to get your bike dyno-tuned run for the exit or pay the man.

There are many pros & cons to a dyno run. Yes a dyno can break your bike, but would you rather have it break in the shop or when you are pushing the limits on the highway? A dyno is a tool, & like any other tool is very useful when used properly. A tool is only as good as the person using it. There are dyno magicians, dyno tuners, & dyno users. There are a lot of dyno users out there who have taken the course supplied by the dealer who sold the unit, but they may not have an understanding of the principles of proper tuning. Some of these people think that you have to push a bike to the limits to tune it, but all they are doing is stressing the parts to possible failure.

The tuner should know what is involved in making a bike run smooth & powerful. He should know what to tweek & when. A magician can tune a bike without a dyno, but uses it to fine tune it to perfection. In my many years of working on bikes, I have only seen a couple of these masters. They are hard to find. If you find one, be very nice to them. :-)

Properly used, a dyno should not stress a machine any more than you would riding on the street. I personally believe that your bike does not need to be tuned beyond powerband that you normally ride in. I rarely go above 4000 rpm, so why would I need the bike to perform at 6000 rpm. If you ride at the limits then you will want it tuned to those limits.

The maps on the newer bikes are generally base maps that need to be tuned to your riding style and the parts of your bike. A general map will do a general job, but a dyno might find something that will make just a little better.

The choice is yours, but if you want a dyno run, don't just look for your max horsepower & torque, have it tune to run its best in you riding powerband. Be wary of inexperience operators. Ask around to see who is the best one to do the job in your area. I no one is close, it may be worth the trip to go to one within a reasonable distance.

53. Question:

What do you say about installing a 21" front tire on a bagger?

Answer:

Are you nuts? A huge, heavy bike needs a wide tire contact patch. The tiny patch a 21" wheel meets on the roadway is straight out dangerous. When braking or cornering the heavy rear of the bike transfers weight to the front wheel and that can cause the front wheel to skid and the bike will fall down or exit the road to crash. The custom bagger craze is ridiculous the things they are doing for eye candy but can kill you. Any bike with a 21" wheel is dangerous and give a horrible quality ride for the tire is narrow and grabs road imperfections to wobble the bike. You always fight the bike with the handlebars to stop wandering tiring out your arms even on small 100 mile rides. Install a 19" minimum or a fat 16" on the front. Forget about looking cool. Nobody really cares anyway if you look cool or not. Better to be safe, sane and live to ride another day.

This is a matter of preference. I personally use a 21" wheel on the front of my bike. I have ridden it to both coast of Canada with no problem. Yes, it can follow imperfections in the roadway & iron bridge can be a challenge at times, but it will become an automatic response to anticipate problems & correct accordingly.

54. Question:

How do I gain confidence to fix my own bike? I just do not know how to go about it.

Answer:

You start like everyone else, one small step at a time. You can take a trade school course if one is available. That is the best and quickest way. If no school? You could volunteer at a local repair shop as an apprentice. This is slow and agonizing method and likely you will be abused to clean floors, parts, restroom and not learn too much. You could buy a used bike to learn how to take it apart with a service manual. That method works. I started on my own bike when I was in my young teens learning how to repair everything on the bike and overhauling the engine. It is amazing how fast you can learn by just diving in. I had no service manual. Today there a fine service manuals sold to guide you. Confidence only comes by doing. Learn to change the oil compartments on your Harley then graduate to tire changing and then top-end overhaul. Then you will be ready to split cases and do transmission work. Just take your time and enjoy the learning process. I say, just begin with a service manual. The service manual also has a lot of safety tips so you don't cut a finger off by accident or start a fire in your garage.

WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS ADVERTISEMENT?

Free Oil Change

When You Buy Oil & Filter

Fast Free Same Day Service at:

Big Dealer Cycles

666 Lucifer's Lane

Mt. Diablo, California

The above advertisement sounds great, but if these guys are thieves watch out! This advertisement is very powerful to draw new customers and it is a good deal at first glance. But one has to now wonder what is really going on here. These guys are willing to work for free? Seems that way, right? No labor charge! But what if they tell you they are putting in quality oil when in fact they are installing inferior oil? There's no way to tell for sure. Even if you bring in your own oil they can switch the oil in the back room with containers filled with cheap oil and you will never know as they pour it into your engine. I have seen these rotten tricks working in motorcycle shops! So, how does a shop like this benefit working for free? To build up your trust and earn your business as the same time damaging your engine so you will bring your bike back to them for repairs. What if they put a bit of valve grinding compound in with the oil, huh? Yeah, it will scratch critical engine components wearing out the engine. Con men operate by earning your complete trust letting you believe they will never harm you, but they are out to get you. The repair industry is full of crooks, liars and con artists. You think all those mechanics heavily tattooed like prison inmates are your friends? That they are upstanding law-abiding citizens? Get real. Many have criminal records and have now found a way to steal, rob and connive operating a vehicle repair business that won't send them to prison even if they do get caught scamming customers. And the same goes for those bare-skinned nice guys who look like clean-cut talk show hosts on TV. These guys can con you just as badly and often even more boldly. There used to be a time people could watch repairs being performed on their vehicles behind a glass wall window. Notice today how those glass windows are now concrete walls sealing your eyes away from what is really going on in the back? There is a good reason for it... they don't want you to see and learn what is really going on back there! Just search on the Internet "Auto Repair Scams" "Auto Fraud" or go to sites such as, Consumer Defense Law. There is one sure way to stop being defrauded and that is to learn how to fix your own motorcycle.

55. Question:

Any advice on motorcycle clothing?

Answer:

Yes, buy a riding jacket that has 3DO or similar protective armor. Buy Sliders Kevlar jeans with optional knee armor. They have the most protection and are economically priced. If you ever do fall off your bike for any reason you will be glad you had these items. I also ride with a full-face, modular (flip-up) helmet. I don't want my face slamming into pavement or grinding on it. Many Harley riders want to look cool and many of them die and are disfigured for the privilege. Wear protective equipment. Be professional. More and more Harley riders are getting wise and wearing protective gear.

http://www.d3o.com/markets/motorcycle/

I personally wear a half helmet. I don't like forced to have a helmet, although there are times that they are useful. A full face or a 3/4 helmet tends to restrict my hearing, & my peripheral vision. I don't even like eye protection that restricts my peripheral vision. Also, the weight of the larger helmets put an unnatural strain on your neck. If you have an accident, you may come out with a good looking head, but if it is not attached to your body, it isn't much good to you, or if the spine is severed & your body does not react to commands any more, then you are not much better off.

If you ride with care & common sense then you should not need all the armor that people wear. Be aware of your surroundings. Don't assume that the other guy is going to do what he is supposed to do. Always be ready to react to a dangerous situation.

On an extremely hot day, someone in full leathers & a full face helmet can have a heat stroke while riding.

56. Question:

I have a H-D Touring model and I hear a clicking noise and sometimes some whiplash in my drive system. What is the cause?

Answer:

Late model Touring bikes have a "cush" cushion drive in the rear wheel. It is just rubber isolators set in the wheel and the rear drive pulley inserts into the rubber gaps to take out nasty shocks to the rear wheel and drivetrain. If the rubber isolators fail you will hear a clicking noise and harsh shift transitions when accelerating and decelerating. It is called a "death rattle" by some because it sounds like the death rattle of cylinder detonation, but emanating at the rear wheel. You can easily repair this yourself. Of course, it could also be a loose brake pad, brake caliper or worn rear wheel or swing arm bearing.

57. Question:

The starter has failed three times on my bike. I am tired of this expensive $700 breakdown leaving me stranded for a tow truck and motel room, etc. What can I do?

Answer:

If your starter motor fails you should still be able to roll the bike in gear with clutch disengaged, pop the clutch to engage to start the bike. Try that next time. It will save you from a tow. Listen to your starter when you start your bike. If you get hesitation to start when pressing the start battery you may have a weak battery or a dirty connection. It can also be bad copper shoes in the starter solenoid itself worn and burned out. Listen also for any grinding noise as this indicates worn starter and clutch gear teeth. Could even be a bad primary cover bushing causing misalignment of the starter gear. Most of the time it will be a failed starter clutch. You should invest in buying an upgraded aftermarket one that is much stronger than the stock item. If you do not have compression release installed on a hopped-up engine you will get starter failures. You may only need one compression release, but two are better for big overbore engines (103+cubic inch) with high compression ratio over 9 to 1.

58. Question:

A dealer told me if I allow non-H-D shops work on my bike it can lose that classic Harley sound. Is this true?

Answer:

No. The dealer is just using scare tactics to keep you coming back to his dealership. The only way you could lose that Harley sound if you had installed exhaust pipes not designed for Harley's like installing a pipe with an expansion chamber on it like two-stroke dirt bikes. I don't know anybody in the industry who would dare do such a thing. The dealer is just giving you a line of bad advice for his benefit. Installing pistons, cams, crankshaft, transmissions, wheels, tires will not alter the sound of your Harley except to make it sound even better.

59. Question:

My dealer told me not to worry about the transmission rattle I have coming from the clutch throw out bearing on my brand new 2013 Touring engine. I think it is a defect and they don't want to fix it. What can I do?

Answer:

Fear not. There is nothing wrong with the bike. That sound you hear is actually deep inside the transmission's straight-cut first gears, but sound emits from the right side trap door area especially in neutral gear. It is just gear rattle. Some bikes have it, some don't, but all eventually will. Your bike just has a bit more "slop" backlash play between the first gear pair and these gears will "chatter" and make you think it is a serious defect. Is it a defect? Yes, due to the design of the transmission. Can it be fixed? Yes, but it is not needed because the chattering noise is just that, noise. It will not harm the transmission until a million miles is put on the transmission! H-D is working on a fix for future models only because the EPA will force them to eventually stop the noise, not that the rattle is a reliability issue. This rattle noise, for now, is nothing to worry about so just get used to it. I know this is hard to do, but once you realize all Harley Twin-Cam overdrive transmissions will begin to chatter it may soothe the pain. Also, most Harley riders install louder pipes that drown out the noise. If you don't hear the rattle, it won't bother you anymore. Now, if you feel strong vibrations when riding and/or hear loud grinding noises that is a defect from a failed shaft bearing. Now, if you just can't stand the rattle noise you can do what other riders have done, switch to a heavier grade motorcycle specific transmission gear oil like 75W-90 or 80W-90. The thicker oil dampens the noise a lot, but it will be a drag on fuel mileage as the oil is resistant to flow even at high temperatures. Now don't think thicker oil is better oil. If you install 70W-140 oil it will be so thick it may not be thin enough to lubricate fast moving parts like ball bearings and will not permit metal filings from being captured by the oil drain plug magnet and that will ruin your transmission.

Well, that's enough for now.....

Stay tuned for Part Five.....

Happy Trails.....

Like this?

Sunday, 22 February 2015

HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTORCYCLE ADVICE - Part Five

Tuesday, 17 February 2015

HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTORCYCLE ADVICE - Part Four